These kits can also be used to polish paint. Just wipe the paint away with alcohol or thinner. I've still got a couple of each sheet stashed away for later shuttle projects. It seems that only the top structure is affected. Clear editor. It makes perfect sense due to the CE 1/72 tile set being designed for the 1/72 Revell shuttle kit. On the actual orbiters there is no even or clean looking area. I also use them for practicing some skills so that I am ready for the bigger and more complicated tasks. I agree with Ralf, the windows would need to be sanded and then polished. This is the hard part, taking a 2D photograph and trying to "flatten" them onto the flat decal shape so that when its applied to the model will be correct.

I think I will use white pastel chalks to try to simulate the effect when I get to the weathering stage. If you sand it down deep enough you will also remove the problem areas. REPEAT: NOT SAFE TO USE ON PAINT. There may be some damage to the nearby paint but this can be more easily fixed and resprayed. Anyone have any ideas on how to remove this? The spray can lacguers from Testors and Tamiya are very nice to use. Keith McNeill in the UK I believe can do a 1/100 decal set which uses a high resolution photo of one of the shuttles during RPF backflips (probably Discovery) and they look perfect to my eye. Sketch in as many details as possible while you have the tracing paper on the orbiter, as they will come in handy later as reference points. Then you can polish the windows using a special Polish for plastics. The Space Shuttle Orbiter is 37m long and has a 24m wingspan, at launch uses 2 detachable Rocket Boosters (with external fuel tanks), and when it has finished its mission in space, it re-enters the atmosphere where it glides like an airplane and lands.
I eventually reached the conclusion that I could probably do the texturing/weathering job well with the modeling skills I already have. The wood tooth pick won't harm the clear plastic like an exacto does.

I used my Xacto knife to scrape some excess paint off of the hatch window and now it needs polishing.

When you re-mask the RCS pods it helps if you first spray on a very thin layer of clear to seal the tape.

Here's how it turned out: It wasn't easy removing the mask.
I use then the Tamiya polishing compound only for the very high shine parts if I feel the neeed to.

The glue already came loose during this process and I had to use my Tamiya Extra Thin adhesive to stick it back on from the outside. and designed to remove fine scratches from Speedo covers, cell phone displays, convertible rear windows, helmet visors etc. I really looking forward to the results! A lot of developmental effort is being expended to deal with the shortcomings of dated molds. Place the tracing paper over the area of the model you want to make a decal for, and use a .05mm mechanical pencil to outline the exact shape the decal should be. The result is the appearance that the windows are fogged up or frosted over like a car windshield on a cold morning. The polishing kit comes with Polishing compound. I did some rough math and figured it would STILL take about two months to do that, and that would be on a shuttle with AFRSI blankets, not a real flying brickyard with tiles on the whole nose and sides like pre-1988 Columbia and Challenger.

Should I try spraying the flat black on this time? Tamiya model kit in scale 1:100, 60401 is a rebox released in 2008 | Contents, Previews, Reviews, History + Marketplace | Rockwell International Orbiter | EAN: 4950344604012

But I ended up with an excellent result. I found these decals but it is not quite what you are looking for because I do not see the complete tile decals.

Those of you who have experience with the polishing compound/micro mesh technique, is much elbow grease involved or does the compound do the polish work with little effort? (Legal stuff: I did it for my own purposes, for my own model, for my own use, based on a decal sheet in my possession.) Next time use a tooth pick to remove the masking. Novus #3 is a heavy scratch remover.

I suppose the only real way to pull it off would be to build the beanie cap so that it borders along the black tiled areas, so that way the modeler could represent the black tiled area with decals, or if they so chose, continue laying tile manually with evergreen. Be that as it may, if you can't find a set of decals to perform similar tricks with, there are some nice artistic ways to represent the tiles with the appropriate amount of subtlety. With the wings masked off, it was time to test the rattle can airbrush on some spare styrene I had sitting around. Is the spray adhesive water soluble? So keep up the good work and I am looking forward to the next updates, take as much time as you like and need. With a fine sandpaper lightly sand the black runs away and respray the white areas. I will try the Future. If I had a real airbrush and was more comfortable in my painting techniques I would try to fade the gray into the white so it would look more realistic like in the photos (the gray should be darker around the outside edges and lighter as you go inward). By the way I would be very interested to hear how you do the decals. The Future should hide the scratches mostly. Sounds like another costly mistake on my part thanks to trying to cut corners. You'll never get a piece of sand paper into that small area to polish it out. It will look all foggy while you are using the micro mesh cloths and by the time you are done and apply the polishing compound the windows will look like glass. And would I still need the Tamiya polishing compound with this kit? Every build is a learning process...and these little problems give us plenty of learning opportunities :). Remember the last images I posted of it lit up, the light shined through the plastic. I had fun building this kit. Tamiya polishing compound is only one of the products that can be used for this task. But I also run out of space so I need to finish my other projects in order to get room for my launch tower. There has been a resurgence of shuttle building since the end of the program. And I was just getting pumped about reaching the final stages of this build and being able to focus on my decal work. All I use is liquid cement. Looking at the pictures I think the runs are caused by the orange peel of the white paint. I have been very anxious to get this part out of the way: the final painting steps before moving on to the decal and finishing portion of the build. The clear window part became foggy from being sanded so I used the micro mesh cloths to polish it. Otherwise just leave the windows as is and use it as a lesson learned. Posts: 2272From: Bellevue, NE, USARegistered: Aug 2007. I have masked and painted these three times and gotten these messy over-runs each time. Exciting stuff!

Arrrghh! I stick with Tamiya masking tape. I think it is possible to fix this but my suggestion is not for the faint hearted. Goo Gone and similar products are not safe to use on paint. I then write the amounts of the different paints on the side to get a reference for later. Thats a difficult problem and too bad since you put already this much effort and money into that build. I'm guessing something in the adhesive spray caused some kind of chemical reaction in this area that melted or did something else to the windows. I managed to get all of the paper off, but as you can see, there are large areas of sticky gooey adhesive that did not come off.

The clear window part on the 1/144 scale kit is a small part.   Pasted as rich text. They're all the same. I wasn't sure if this was gonna fly, until I got the masking tape off and looked at my reference photos.

After I glued the clear part in I filled around the perimeter with putty and blended the clear part in with the white plastic to eliminate the seam. There has been a resurgence of shuttle building since the end of the program. I agree with Mike and Ralf. Or you can paint the black mask the areas with Tamiya tape or Frog tape would also work.

I'm not a fan of enamels and would suggest using spray lacquer on your next build if you are going the spray can route. Now, I can start on the Atlantis kit that is waiting on the workbench. Then paint the color over it. This step made me a bit nervous because of the way I had used the paper and spray adhesive to mask the windows. When I was painting my shuttle I handled it a lot and left any dirt or grime to add to the effect. I also have an original CE 1/72 Tile decal set and never thought to reduce it to 1/144 for a better fit on the Revell shuttle. × I haven't used spray adhesive so I don't know what to recommend for removing it safely. And finally, this part of the painting is really giving me fits.

I then sanded them with something like 1500 grit and then used the micro mesh polishing cloths to bring the luster back. The grainy-ness only adds to the realism.   You cannot paste images directly. Yes it is Testors tube glue. While mixing the colours I made spray them on a test area and see how the colour looks like on plastic. http://www.megahobby.com/micromeshpolishingstixset5setspk6pcpkdifferentgritsscalemotorsport.aspx - Link to sanding sticks.

Worse case you can always write Tamiya for a new windscreen or attempt to make a replacement out of clear styrene sheet. Anyone ever have any luck getting replacement parts?

I could certainly try to do it, but the problem with that idea is that the earlier shuttles had extensive upper surface tile work wrapping around the nose. I also think that you may want to try it with careful sanding, from coarse paper up to 1000- wet sand paper. Include a little bit of extra image area outside of the shape area to be cut out. I know he did a series of shuttle decals, but don't know if he did the 1/100 scale or the heat shield. I finished the model with a heavy heart when learning of Steve Nagel's death last week. Ed Bisconti on eBay "may" have done one, but 1/100 doesn't command the aftermarket like 1/144 and 1/72 do. × Each step to a finer grit will remove the scratches left by the last grit used until it's smooth.

I stopped when I realized the difficulty of matching up weathering on adjacent decals and getting them applied to the model EXACTLY so that the weathering would appear seamless. You are talking about the texture map from the Orbiter flight sim shuttles. It looks great so far and I can't wait to see the custom decals you are making. The Camouflage Gray turned out to be an excellent choice. It was much easier than trying to protect the windows with tape while I blended it in.

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